Have I mentioned that I’m a big fan of Central Asian bazaars? In fact, I’m a bit of a snob about it. I walk around taking photos and tasting the atmosphere like a Frenchman might a stinky cheese. Of all the bazaars in all the countries I’ve been to, then, […]
Central Asia
Kokpar / Buzkashi: Central Asian Death Polo
In perhaps the craziest invention in sports since Aztec Death Soccer, several Central Asian countries host a traditional sport to rival the most dangerous and unregulated competition since match-fixing in the Serie A. Kopkari is popular through much of the horse-loving region of Central Asia, but I finally came across […]
Kow-Ata Lake: Deep in the Heart of the Kopet Dag
When you smell the rotten eggs, you know you’re getting close! Tuck under the foothills of the Kopet Dag mountains, the Kow-Ata Underground Lake provides a nice hot spring experience in the middle of sandy deserts. On the surface, desert stretches in one direction while layers of hills turn to […]
Afghanistan Tourism: An Introduction
Of all the Central Asian Republics, the easiest by far to get a tourist visa for is (surprisingly?) Afghanistan. I’d never planned to visit Afghanistan on this round of Central Asia (and indeed remember assurring several people that I wouldn’t… sorry guys), but after visiting the Wakhan Valley’s border market […]
Gypjak Mosque
For a man with the stature of Turkmenbashi, no normal tomb will do. It must be a grand marble mausoleum, built to house the whole family. It must be situated just next door to an even grander marble mosque, large enough to hold the whole extended family. And so the […]
Mary the Museum
When I think of Central Asian regional museums, I usually don’t expect a whole lot. I was really pleasantly surprised, then, the with Mary Museum. Though the cost was a bit more than I expected, it was full not only of old cultural artifacts from the nearby ancient city of […]
Hey there! I'm Stephen, this is my travel blog, and that's me in the poofy hat.
I'm a photographer / writer traveling since 2008, and I've been doing my best to visit amazing places.
My current focus is Central Asia, because for a hiking and camping enthusiast it's as good as it gets.