Kumkapi Waterfront Memory has a strange way of attaching a feeling to a place when traveling. I remember Indonesia’s tiny island of Raha, for example, as one of the loneliest places in the world. This has nothing to do with the island itself, really, but everything to do with my […]
Middle East
Prince’s Islands: An Istanbul Daytrip
Prince’s Islands: An Istanbul Daytrip The Princes’ Islands, once home to Istanbul’s exiled elite and now the scene of a self-imposed summer escape from the city, had been in my consciousness for months before I finally visited on my 4th visit to the city. These islands, and particularly the largest […]
Gezi Protests: A Moment Fleeting As A Feeling
Last time I was here in Istanbul, the streets were alive with people protesting their government. Though the issue was superficially the planned redevelopment of a small park in the center of town, protestors I chatted with named everything from increasing government authoritarianism and Islamicization to a potentially offensive historical […]
Turkish Baklava in Istanbul
Turkish Baklava in Istanbul If I weigh 250 pounds next time you see me arriving in America, this is the reason why: Karakoy Gulluoglu. This baklava shop, which a chance-met Korean named YuKyung was kind/terrible enough to introduce me to, is one of the most well-renown in Istanbul and by […]
Besiktas Football Stadium in Istanbul
Given my predilection for both soccer and Istanbul, is it any surprise that when I finally found myself in the city mid-season that I made a determined effort to see a game? Indeed if anything, the surprising thing here is that I haven’t been to more futbol matches around the […]
Istanbul Nargile and Backgammon Guide
Istanbul Nargile and Backgammon Guide I’m a big fan of lazy from time to time, especially when I can incorporate a bit of culture into the equation and call it ‘part of traveling’. (See my occasional predilection towards gluttony, for reference). The nargile cafes of Istanbul, then, satisfy a very smoky […]