Last time I was here in Istanbul, the streets were alive with people protesting their government. Though the issue was superficially the planned redevelopment of a small park in the center of town, protestors I chatted with named everything from increasing government authoritarianism and Islamicization to a potentially offensive historical […]
Turkey
Turkish Baklava in Istanbul
Turkish Baklava in Istanbul If I weigh 250 pounds next time you see me arriving in America, this is the reason why: Karakoy Gulluoglu. This baklava shop, which a chance-met Korean named YuKyung was kind/terrible enough to introduce me to, is one of the most well-renown in Istanbul and by […]
Besiktas Football Stadium in Istanbul
Given my predilection for both soccer and Istanbul, is it any surprise that when I finally found myself in the city mid-season that I made a determined effort to see a game? Indeed if anything, the surprising thing here is that I haven’t been to more futbol matches around the […]
Istanbul Nargile and Backgammon Guide
Istanbul Nargile and Backgammon Guide I’m a big fan of lazy from time to time, especially when I can incorporate a bit of culture into the equation and call it ‘part of traveling’. (See my occasional predilection towards gluttony, for reference). The nargile cafes of Istanbul, then, satisfy a very smoky […]
Pierre Loti Cafe above Eyup
Pierre Loti Cafe above Eyup Inexplicably, the Pierre Loti Cafe way out in the Eyup district is meant to be a pretty common tourist attraction. While the view from the hilltop cafe and attached tram are nice, I found the cemetery and mosque down the hill far more interesting to […]
Dinner With a Local Family – My Favorite Istanbul Guided Tour
My Favorite Istanbul Guided Tour – Dinner With a Local Family I know I’ve only recently decried the ‘proper-tourist-trail’ thing, but one experience in Istanbul left me thinking about whether or not a guide can be a good thing on occasion. After all don’t we oftentimes need a translator? Someone […]