Its very rare that regional capitals, in Central Asia at least, are anything but a transit point to get to bigger and better destinations. The city of Penjikent, though, is a wonderful little backwater. Though once easily accessible from the Uzbekistan city of Samarkand, a disagreement over hydro issues between the Uzbek and Tajik governments has seen that border closed for years now.

The city actually has stuff going on, soccer games and occasional cultural festivals.

The old town, on a hilltop right above the new town, features the ramble-able remnants of a fortress that once sat at the heart of the Sogdian empire. We’re talking the center of Zoroastrianism, here!

At the main market, local goods and Russian imports to stock up on before another trip out to the mountains surrounding Penjikent.

Or something a little spicy to help along that celebratory meal when you get back.

As if that weren’t enough to hold interest, shortly outside of Penjikent is the UNESCO-site of Sarazm.

The site leaves much to the imagination, but at its peak in the 5th millennium B.C. it was the center of metallurgy for all of Central Asia.

I ended up in Penjikent three different times over the two and a half weeks I spent in the Fan Mountains, and loved it everytime. Now I just need to go back and convince the tourism board there to hire me as an international ambassador!