After a ton of bad experiences and disappointments in the rest of Azerbaijan, it took one final destination to restore any semblance of pleasure to my time in the country. I liked almost everything about Xinaliq, and spent more than twice the time there than any other place in Azerbaijan. […]
Tag: Former USSR
Tajik Pamir Hospitality
How many times does it take being invited in for tea in Central Asia before it gets old? I’ve had a lot of these experiences, so far, and I’m still going strong. We originally met this kid at the neighborhood water pump, hauling home about 8 gallons of water. What […]
Katta Langar Mausoleum in Uzbekistan
After so much time spent in dusty deserts and historic old towns of Uzbekistan, I often feel the pull to get out and find some green spaces. While reading through an old Uzbekistan Airways in-flight mag that someone had stolen and left in my guesthouse in Khiva, I saw an […]
Ruins of Konye-Urgench
En route from Ashgabat and the Darvaza Gas Crater to the Uzbek border and Khiva is one of Central Asia’s saddest historical sites and most poignant memories: the ruins of Konye-Urgench. With the dubious honor of being one of the bloodiest massacres in human history, Genghis Khan’s destruction of Konye-Urgench […]
Lahic Azerbaijan Travel Guide
Lahic is famous in Azerbaijan for its blacksmiths, whose workshops line the main streets of the Old Town. These were, I thought, a bit oversold and not that exciting. Much more interesting to me was simply walking the streets and alleys that branch off of the main road and cut […]
Shopping at the Osh Bazaar
Have I mentioned that I’m a big fan of Central Asian bazaars? In fact, I’m a bit of a snob about it. I walk around taking photos and tasting the atmosphere like a Frenchman might a stinky cheese. Of all the bazaars in all the countries I’ve been to, then, […]