Last time I was here in Istanbul, the streets were alive with people protesting their government. Though the issue was superficially the planned redevelopment of a small park in the center of town, protestors I chatted with named everything from increasing government authoritarianism and Islamicization to a potentially offensive historical reference used as the name for a newly constructed bridge.
There was some undertone of violence, with overturned busses and the occasional Paris Commune-style street barricades constructed out of paving stones and billboards that periodically sprang up across major streets.
Through the Besiktas neighborhood, at least from my outsiders’ perspective, this constant feeling of menace but also a strong underlying sense of community filled the air.
Perhaps most amazing was the sound of it all. Pardon the video quality, here, as I was in a bit of a hurry to get to the top of Besiktas and towards Taksim. This sound, pots and pans banging from windows all through the neighborhood, was like a wave of noise that swept through the area to support the protestors.
Back in Taksim, though, and of course in Gezi Park itself? An atmosphere that felt almost festive in character.
In fact, at times the streets literally broke out into song and dance!
Everywhere, all over Taksim and Besiktas, people socializing and living and partying and protesting. It was a pretty beautiful thing to see, actually.
And in the end? They won! They occupied long enough, protested loud enough, and grabbed enough international attention to convince the Turkish government to back down!
This is a thing not my own, very much not my fight. And yet, I’m almost proud! Certainly excited. I somehow feel attached to this place, having passed through so many times over the past year or so, and its great to see that community protest anywhere can be an effective tool for action.
It seems weird now, though! Walking through Gezi and there are people planting more grass and (still) scrubbing graffiti. There are still police in the area, but they mainly seem to be sitting in the shade and ogling passersby. Things seem calm, which is of course good news for the people of Istanbul and the masses who poured out in support of a cause. Perhaps, then, this is the sign of a better and more democratic era for Turkey? One can and must hope.
seems like a good party
Great vibe and cool people, but I imagine it would have felt a bit different if I’d been there on a night when the riot police busted things up!